Day 2 & 3

A local spring we passed during our ascension

The 28^th of June, my third day in Lesoit Village (City.) Frank, Juma, and Paapaa planned to take us on a hike up Oldonyo Olosipa (Bald Mountain). We woke up this morning for Chai Maziwa and Chapati, then dawned our shukas and finished preparing for our hike. We departed from Cha’ ngombe (Franks Kraal) in the morning to park a bit outside of the Lesoit city market and began our hike. It was at this time that Chris and I received our fimbos-(Maasai walking sticks carved from African black wood) Juma and Frank gifted their walking sticks to Chris and I.  

The Hike itself was about 45 minutes-one way. As we walked, we passed natural springs and herds of cattle grazing around the base of the mountain.

A herd of Cows grazing

 Juma and Mrs. Askew told us stories of warriors coming face to face with fierce Pythons that could fling themselves into and strike from trees.  After a short while of walking we stumbled upon a clearing. Frank stopped us to show us a few of the games warriors play such as Rungu(club) and Fimbo throwing . He pulled out one of the traditional weapons Maasai warriors are equipped with; the Rungu. Juma then stationed himself at the other end of the clearing, then Frank wound up and threw the rungu clear across the area to land inches away Juma’s feet; something like 80-90 yards. Then it was our turn. He handed me the rungu and positioned me across from Juma, after showing the way to hold the African black wood club I let it whip out of my hands to land a few yards short of Juma. Chris followed suit and positioned himself across the clearing, as he swung his arm the rungu flailed out of his hands and straight into the bush. I made sure to hold my victory over him for the remainder of the hike but, my triumph was short lived, another competition loomed over us as we looked toward the peak of Olosipa. Who would be the first to gaze out over the land of Lesoit?

During our hike we actually ran into an illegal lumbering operation, These men were  illegally harvesting  lumber from the Maasai forests, operations like these are fairly common

  As the summit of Oldonyo olosipa came into view I took no time in attempting to cement a double vicotory and took off in a spint, conquering the increasingly steep slopes, victory insight. I stopped a few yards short of my destination looking down towards Chris to catch my breath and gloat on my impending victory. On this sight Chris shot towards the summit to in a hail mary despite the distance between us. With my strength returned I prepared to finish the distance, but before I could do this, vicious Ants had begun their hike up my right leg!  I remembered the east African saying “when the siafu(Biting ants)  are around everyone is your family “-Those who are inauspicious enough to be swarmed by siafu are advised to strip,  but I refused to strip and pulled each ant off of my leg. While I did this, Chris had summited Olosipa and I received a humbling barrage of teasing from Chris. Truly the worst indigestion comes from ones own words. As Frank, Juma, and Mrs. Askew joined Chris and I we all looked out from our vantage point, amazed at the reaches of Lesoit City rolling mountains and plains dressed the land scape with villages spotted throughout the range.

Mrs. Askew snaps a photo to commemorate the occasion

 After catching our breath and commemorating the event we began to descend Oldonyo Osopina.
Once we returned, we enjoyed a well needed Shower and descended the plateau into Songe to watch the European finals Portugal Vs Spain, the quarterfinals for the night.

06/28 My third day in Lesoit city was spent with the Ilmurran( Warriors). Chris and I were initially invited the morning of the 28th to witness our first Cow slaughter, but due to our late night we arrived at Juma’s kraal-Kati to eat breakfast with his family. Afterwards we traveled to the Orpul -(Warrior encampment) late morning  to meet the Ilmurran. Chris and I separated from the rest of the gang and were led into the warrior encampment, where we roasted meat and became acquainted with them. After the roasted beef and some small talk we were escorted by the Illmurran back to Juma’s village. On the way back we joked and conversed a bit more to gauge the possibility of Chris and I staying in the Orpul, and if so, how long? The warriors spoke Maa (their first language) were fluent in Swahilli (Tanzania’s national language), and spoke some fractured English. Communicating with them didn’t prove difficult with Chris’s and my own mastery of “swanglish”. Once we returned to Mrs. Askew and the rest of the gang, we spoke on some of the details concerning our stay with the warriors. Now despite the common understanding that Chris and my own combined physique and raw manliness would have no trouble dealing with a lion, there had been sightings of lions in the area and there was the question of reliable water sources. Unfortunately, it was resolved that Chris and I would construct our own Orpul with the help of Paapaa, Lenjekka(Franks younger brother), Frank, Juma and a few others. We would begin in the morning! The remainder of the afternoon was spent mingling in Cha’ ngombe, working on our Maa, and relaxing.  In the evening we made another excursion to Songe to see the semi-finals between Germany and Italy, (2-1) Italy, at a local bar. During our descents to Songe, Chris and I found ourselves traveling to a Michael Jackson's “Greatest Hits” album. Our car, toughing the rough terrain in the middle of a pitch black forest, jamming out to P.Y.T. It had turned out Frank was a huge Michael Jackson fan.

 

 

Arrival in Lesoit Village(city)

After a full day of driving we arrived at Lesoit(City) village. During the trip Mrs. Askew taught us how to greet in Maa. So after a little practice during the trip I exited the car into the pitch black, moonless night to be greeted by tall dark silhouettes.  I Crashed and burn my Maa entrance exam, but the rest of greetings were said in Swahili. We all sat outside the Maasai Boma (house) Chris and I would live in for the following two weeks and drank chai maziwa; A milk based black tea lightly spiced with cardamom and ginger I think. As we drank tea Chris and I were acquainted with Paapaa, Juma, Mary and a few others that resided in Lesoit. Being bad with names it would take me some time beyond our initial acquaintance for me to keep faces with names. After tea we were introduced to our new living quarters; a mud and dung exterior with a stick foundation. The boma was decorated with, goats, chickens, roosters and a cabinet constructed from wood planks.  Chris and I got settled in and prepared for bed- a large wood frame with hay under a goat skin all of this under a large cover. We threw our sleeping bags over the bed and hit the hay (literally). The next morning we’d experience our first goat slaughter.

(from the left) Juma- kneeling, Chris, Paapaa, and me leading the goat out of the village

We woke up around 7:30 in the morning for chapattis and chai maziwa. After breakfast we went on to prepare lunch. Frank and the others led out a single goat from his boma. It would be slaughtered in honor of Chris and my arrival to the village. We all began to walk out of the immediate village to the area the slaughtering would take place. Chris and I led the goat as it struggled to escape. Oddly enough it seemed to have an idea of was going to happen next. It would spontaneously turn around from my direction towards the village in vanity. The whole scenario became uncanny as the rest of the goats back in the village began to bleat as if they were in the know as well. Regardless we continued  about 70 yards out of the immediate village. The traditional Maasai goat slaughter is on the more humane side; the goat is traditionally suffocated then harvested. But, due to the presence of our Muslim driver Tano who would be eating with us, the ceremonial goat’s throat would be slit. The goat was laid on leaves cut from a tree, one man held it’s horns, another secured the goats feet, and a warrior took out his simu (a small machete like knife) and began cutting through the goat’s neck. It’s body began to writhe in struggle for it’s life for nearly a full two minutes until it went limp. A gaping hole now encompassed the goat’s neck, the men around us began the process of harvesting the goat. The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to skinning, cutting, and eating the goat. No part of the goat was wasted Chris and I sampled nearly every part from the face to the liver. To quench our thirsts we drank a sort of soup that was created from combining a wood known to contain medicinal attributes and meat. After a long, filling, and drawn out lunch we set out to tour Lesoit Village (city).

The entirety of Lesoit is comprised of smaller villages or Kraals  owned usually by the man of the family. The size of the Kraals are determined by the quantity of wives and cattle a man had. A larger Kraal usually had multiple bomas, wives, and (as one could imagine) children to the tenth degree. To the Maasai there is no greater importance the children, it equivocates to wealth. The children, excluding those that attend school, take care of the life stock of their father so the structure of Maasai life never collapses. Frank’s Kraal was named Cha’ ngombe (many cattle) and was on the smaller side due to the fact that Frank has yet to take a wife. As we walked through the sandy bush land of Lesoit we saw the it was like walking on mars, seeing the large candelabra trees, the massive sisal plants tower over me It was nothing that I was used too.

Three of the five secondary school class rooms.

As we toured the village center which was surrounded by the primary and secondary schools we got a peek into Maasai student life.  Campus included a small store which sold snacks and pop as well as a soccer field and what seemed to be a basketball court… After the tour we laid under a tree after  sipped sodas until the sun passed and the shadows grew long (around 6:30) then headed back to the village for dinner to close our day.